An Irish Dream- Part II

If you’ve been following along with me you’ll have just finished reading “An Irish Dream”, my introduction to the wild adventure I had in Ireland last spring. Continue reading for more travel stories, tips, insights & inspiration for planning your own Irish adventure! If you’re just joining, welcome and glad to have you along for the journey!

Day 1 after a hearty breakfast we packed up the car and drove to our first destination. The 13th century Desmonse Castle located in Newcastle West, former site of the Church of Ireland & a stronghold of the Earls of Desmond for centuries. Lucky for us it was a gorgeous, bright sunny morning and Desmond Castle was within a short 15 minute drive of our airbnb. Castles in Ireland are plentiful, literally everywhere you look and many are open for tours. When we arrived we were thrilled to discover we were the only ones there for the *Free guided tour! However, by the time the tour began 15 minutes later a few others had joined. Thankfully it remained a small group size and we had a great tour guide who taught us a lot of history about the 13th century castle and ended our tour by reciting a poem for us in Gaelic. This mighty fortress served as a base for the British forces during the Irish War of Independence, as a Masonic Lodge, community hall and even a cinema in the 1960’s. Our favorite part was walking through the banquet hall & the opportunity to sit in the thrones at the head of the room. Giant fireplaces a grown man could stand in flanked the table and beautiful stained glass windows that looked out to quaint shops and the town square. Definitely recommend checking it out if you’re in the area, hard to pass up a castle tour especially when it’s free!!

Part of our itinerary was inspired by the Heritage Passes I was gifted by the OPW Heritage Sites of Ireland as part of a brand collaboration. The amazing passes gave my travel companions and I free entrance to over 45 sites across Ireland that normally have an entrance fee. During our trip we stopped at over 10 of the locations and they were all so impressive!

*Travel Tip– Pick one up on their website here: https://heritageireland.ie/visit/heritage-card/ and save yourself hundreds off of entrance fees for historic sites all over Ireland. Another bonus is that the pass is good for one year & allows unlimited entry to each site! Definitely worth the $40 purchase price. The savings more than covers the initial price for the Heritage card & they can be purchased well in advance of your trip or picked up at any of the Heritage sites during your adventure.

*Travel Tip- Having your own set of wheels while tarveling around Ireland is a top recommendation from our group! Our rental car gave us the opportunity to travel at our own pace, allowed for plenty of flexibility with our itinerary, the ability to stop at any or all the castles we randomly found on the side of the road (and there were many!!) & provided the freedom to explore wherever we wanted! *If you’re in the planning phase of your trip I highly recommend renting a car. Of course that will mean a few things to look into such as rental car companies (*I recommend SIXXT, they were pretty great and very affordable), international drivers license/permit (if one is required for you, this can be ordered here: https://internationaldrivingauthority.com/?msclkid=0840e20ff5821fedbb3b84b04668c769) and the added potential stress of learning to drive on the left side of the road…

Our next stop was Clare Abbey, located in the city of Ennis. Clare Abbey is a ruined Augustinian monastery founded in 1189 along the banks of the Fergus River. With extensive ruins and unique architecture it was a very interesting site to visit. The monestary was under the patronage of Donal Mor O’Brien, King of Munster and eventually grew to become the most important and powerful in the diocese. The beautiful ruins that exist today consist of a long nave, chancel church and tower, domestic buildings and cloisters that surround the church. When we arrived we parked in the small car park and walked across the stone precipice to the innards of the ruins and had the entire place to ourselves for over an hour. The sunlight glistened through the 15th century traceried windows, crows circled overhead and we marveled at the ornate architectural details. Chico had brought a drone along on the trip and had a great time capturing stunning overhead views, however, the crows weren’t to fond of the drone and chased it for a bit. ; )

Ennis Friary, our next stop is right in the heart of Ennis, a small quaint town. This historic friary can be toured for $5 Euros. We really loved the tall tower and beautifully preserved windows and archways of the church. Tucked inside a small gated garden was a very peculiar fairy that we nicknamed “Smeagel” for it’s creepy likeness of the LOTR character.. After walking through the main body of the church we wandered outside and enjoyed the scenery of town. A school group passed by and we all loved hearing the different dialects and beautiful Irish accents. We walked back to our car and began an hour drive towards the coast. Next stop, the Kilkee Cliffs!

Our arrival at the Kilkee Cliffs happened to fall in the middle of the afternoon, with the sun shining high overhead and only a small handful of people at the cliffs besides our party. It was picture perfect and we couldn’t have asked for better weather while we walked along the stunning coastal walk. Everywhere we looked we were met with spectacular views of the coastline, the deep turquoise and cerulean blue hues of the Atlantic Ocean contrasting against the rugged cliffs was mesmerizing. Since we had plenty of time we opted to do a version of the long linear walk along the cliffs following a combo of the cliff path and a country road. Thick spongy grass covered several areas along the cliffs and reminded me of walking across the springy floor at my gymnastics studio (I did gymnastics for 2 1/2 years while I was in highschool) or how it feels to walk on soft, squishy, extra padded yoga mats (or something similar..). It was very weird to walk on and I would caution anyone heading to the cliffs to pay attention to the changing terrain especially if standing/walking anywhere near an edge. *Tips: It can be quite difficult to judge the density or stability of these areas at times; for your safety please exercise caution whenever near the edge of these cliffs! The weather can change rapidly in Ireland, especially along the coast. So, I highly recommend planning on layers (one being water proof!) and a beanie, gloves and scarf if you’ll be visiting in the Fall, Winter & Spring. I also suggest waterproof shoes (nice ot keep feet warm & dry) that have good traction to help you keep your footing while walking along cliffs or on rugged terrain. *We were fortunate to have mostly clear/dry days, but Ireland is known for rapid changing weather so it’s good to be prepared. You may end up having all 4 seasons in one day and those can change in the matter of minutes, cycling through several in less than 30 minutes haha. So it’s best to be prepared & aware of your surroundings.

After enjoying the scenic views we spotted a set of stairs etched into the side of the cliff that led down onto one of the many layers of seacliff below. We walked down the steps, wandered across a maze of tiered levels of the cliff until we reached a flat rocky plateau. Waves laped against the edge of the shore below while we sat gazing out across the sea to islands off in the distance. I could have sat there for hours just breathing in the fresh salty air and absorbing the view. It was rejuvenating, refreshing and so peaceful. We had the entire cliff to ourselves and we basked in the sunlight while we soaked in the beauty all around us. After about an hour we got up and leisurely walked back towards the car. *Tips: For anyone planning to visit the area I highly recommend planning to visit midday to give yourself ample time to explore, pause to enjoy the captivating views and to bring several layers as the Irish weather can change instantly. The last stop for our day was the epic Cliffs of Moher so we packed back into the car and drove about an hour before we reached the cliffs. We parked and checked out the visitors center before we climbed a long staircase to the top of the cliff.

Cliffs of Moher live up to the hype and fame of their name. They seriously are magnificent, towering rugged cliffs that appear to stretch as far as your eye can see until they’re met by the crashing surf of the Atlantic Ocean. Puffins are known to frequent the area and can often be seen circling the ledges or flying alongside a flock of seagulls. My first impression of the famed cliffs were that they truly are impressive, massive and majestic. They tower over 700 feet above the Atlantic and provide an ethereal feel that seems to cement the awareness that you are indeed in Ireland. I could hardly believe that I was standing on the cliffs overlooking the sea. After years of scouring travel blogs, books and countless hours of research, the first sight of the cliffs felt like I had finally had my first truly authentic Irish experience. It was a whole vibe. A moment of pure bliss passed over me as I stood gazeing out into the deep blue of the ocean. Sunbeams streamed through the clouds casting brilliant rays of light and beautiful serene panoramic views stretched out before me. Gulls and other seabirds circled over head and the wind tugged at the tassle/pouff on of my beanie…nearly pulling it off my head! Haha. It truly is an inspirational view, one that stirs a longing to explore & serves as a reminder that this is what dreams are made of! That amazing moment will forever be firmly planted in my memories as one of the most magical I’ve ever experienced.

Wind whiped through my hair and across the grassy plains, whistled through the rocks, waves crashed againsted the rugged rocky cliffs and we sat for hours completely mesmerized by the majestic view. Walking on the edge of these breathtaking cliffs is a thrilling adventure you have to experience at least once in your life to truly appreciate the granduer, scale & impressive heights of them. At one point the breeze was so strong it nearly ripped my stocking cap off my head & made the little fluffy bauble at the end stand straight out. My friends all thought it was hilarious because apparently I reminded them of a little garden gnome when my hat was standing at a point …*See photo below of my gnome hat 😉

*Travel tips- I highly recommend timing your visit so that you arrive near the end of the day in order to enjoy the view with the least amount of crowds as possible (plus golden hour/sunset is an incredible time to be here if you can time it right & the sky is clear enough to view the rays reflecting off the cliffs! Pure magic!!) We practically had the expanse of the cliffs to ourselves because we planned our arrival to be just after 5:30 pm when all the tour buses had departed for the day and the crowds had thinned to nothing. It also helped that we were traveling in April (an off season month) and that the visitor center closed at 7pm so there was less likelyhood of crowds arriving after us, but we still had plenty of time to browse their shop and use the restroom (**the only ones available near the cliffs and within the park) before wandering around the cliffs.

Our day ended with a short drive to the town of Doolin for dinner in a super cute little restaurant called The Cottage. We timed our arrival perfectly because the minute we were all seated at our table we heard a huge crack of thunder roll & then it was a downpour. Thankfully it was a quick shower that rolled through and was gone by the time we had finished our meal. 🙂 *Tip: If you’re looking for delicious home cooked meals, with an authentic Irish touch and warm hospitality this is the place to go! Everything was amazing and you can’t beat the warm and cosy vibe. It was the perfect spot to refuel before we made the hour + drive back to our airbnb.

Day 2 began bright and early right at the crack of dawn. We opted for the early start in order to fill the day with as many sights on our itinerary as possible. We began with a quick photo-op short stop at Glenquin Castle (*opens for tours in May) while on our way towards the head of the Ring of Kerry. Our first full stop was at Kanturk Castle (*Free site to explore), built in the early 17th century as the cheif residence of Lord Duhallow, of the MacCarthy Clan before it switched to the Perceval family in the late 17th century. It is built to model an italianate style and thought to resemble the Italian Renaissance that was influencing Gaelic culture at that time. Kanturk is a combo of country house meets castle and the remaining structure is quite impressive. When we arrived we had the entire grounds to ourselves. We stayed for over an hour walking through each section of the castle, through each of the towers and the grounds. We also had fun flying our drone here and capturing some amazing overhead shots. It was incredible walking through each room, imagining what this castle was like in it’s hay day. We couldn’t believe our luck that we had this astonishing castle to ourselves!

We loaded back into the car to drive towards our starting point for a short “highlights of the Ring of Kerry” tour: Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey, Muckross House & Lake, Torq Waterfall, Ladies View, the Dark Valley, Gap of Dunloe and several other viewpoints along the way. The Ring of Kerry is incredibly scenic, everywhere you look you’re surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, beautiful lakes encompased by mountains that seem to just pop up out of nowhere, stunning castles and ancient ruins, charming fairytale bridges and the kind of scenery that belongs in a storybook. It is all so overwhelming in the best way possible and we were smitten with the Irish countryside from the first glance. Our first stop was the still intact fortress of Ross Castle, an impressive stone fortress that was built in the 16th century. Our Heritage passes allowed us to enter for free and enjoy the interpretive displays while we were at the castle. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to do the guided tour due to time constraints, but we thoroughly enjoyed the portions we were able to see and the magnificent views of Muckross Lake that sits adjacent to the castle. *Tip: If you’re short on time, I recommend starting bright and early in order to beat the tour buses & traffic gridlocks at the most popular sites. Also you may want to plan to do the route in reverse. I’ve heard that is another great option for avoiding crowds.

Muckross Abbey, originally built as a monastary in the 6th century and eventually in 1448 as a Franciscan Friary was the next stop of the morning. The structure is roofless but otherwise has been well preserved with a graveyard that holds many chieftans of the past & is still a commonly used burial ground today. There are dozens of hidden rooms, multiple spiral staircases, a beautiful tower, chancel, a long naeve and a gorgeous 400+ year old ancient Yew tree that is standing in the middle of the courtyard surrounded by cloisters. We were enthralled with the fairytale like feeling of the stunning ruins. Walking through each corridor, pearing through windowpanes, stepping under & inside the hearth of ancient fireplaces, carefully stepping down spiral staircases and crossing thresholds that hold so much history was quite moving. There is something so thrilling about exploring old ruins. It’s a glimpse & step back into the past that connects me to the history of a place and fills me with wonder. Awe at the beauty of the location, attention to details and construction of the architectural designs and makes me ponder what it would have been like to visit during it’s prime.

One of the most magical moments of the day came when we randomly happened upon a bagpiper playing a traditional Irish tune while we were visiting Torq waterfall. Literally a pinch me moment when we spotted the man dressed in a kilt and heard the first notes of his bagpipes serenading us while we walked towards the falls. It was a real life fairytale moment. Could it have been anymore idyllic?? (Said in Chandler Bing’s voice of course ;))There is something very unique about the sound of bagpipes, especially while surrounded by an Irish treasure like the beautiful tumbling waters of Torq Waterfall. The melodic notes washed over us as we sat at the base of the waterfall and somehow made the moment even more memorable. It truly felt like a scene in a storybook instead of real life. One that we still can’t quite believe because it was so surreal in the moment yet it will always remain a special memory of this day. One I’ll never forget.

After our traipse through the woods and memorable walk to Torq waterfall we drove towards the scenic viewpoint called Ladies View. Named after Queen Victoria’s tour of Ireland and how taken her Ladies maids were with the stunning view. There is a cleft on a rock ledge where you’re able to stand and look out at the vast landscape spread out before you. It was quite the change of scenery from the lush forests we had just visited less than an hours drive away. We were all quite blown away by the incredible scenic views, especially of the mountains off in the distance and the beautiful terrain that sprawled out across the horizon. One of the most surpising things about Ireland is how quickly and drastically the landscape can change in what feels like mere moments. It never ceased to amaze us as we drove across mountains, along the rugged sea cliffs and down twisty, winding country roads. All apart of the allure and appeal of the magical island of Ireland. We never tired of the adventure, the hunt for the next surprise waiting to be discovered around every corner.

A drive around the Ring of Kerry would not be complete without a visit to the famed Gap of Dunloe. However, I would definitely recommend verifying that the driving directions do in fact include roads that are accessible and driveable…as many of these bumpy, single lane roads often don’t look driveable and can leave you with a pit in your stomach as you encroach upon them. They are not the kind of road you’d want to have a car breakdown or need roadside assistance on. Because, out there that kinda thing doesn’t exist. *Tips: If you’re not properly prepared and haven’t done the research I highly recommend pausing and looking into the clearest route between point A and point B and having a backup route just in case. *Also making sure you have a full tank of gas & spare tire if needed! I also recommend using and ESim card or ESim app to have the best chance at locating a phone signal while out exploring, just in case.

For us, our route led us down a very precarious looking single lane mostly unpaved road (that I had done quite a bit of research on prior to our travels to ensure it was indeed a road! ). However, the predicament we could have found ourselves in had the road not connected with a paved highway could have been very bad. We were out in the middle of nowhere. Literally in the Dark Valley, driving down a “short cut” single lane bumpy, rocky road, cutting across fields, weaving through the countryside, across the mountainous area between Ladies View & the Gap of Dunloe. To say it was nervewracking is an understatement. At one point we were nearly clipped by a crazed driver who came bareling towards us expecting that we would somehow be able to move aside to let them pass without any regard to the fact that we had nowhere to go, nowhere to pull over. Miraculously, somehow Chico was able to wedge our car between the ege of the road and a wire fence blocking a field that was at least 15 feet below us right before they crashed into us. We all breathed a sigh of relief when we made it to the paved roadway again and made it to the head of the Gap of Dunloe.

What a beautiful location. On a clear day one could see a little village nestled between the small gap between mountains. Unfortunately the weather was not the greatest while we were here, but that didn’t detract from the beauty. Po and I walked to the edge to better take in the view while Chico enjoyed flying his drone and capturing some epic footage for us. Peach was feeling tired from the drive so she opted to enjoy the views from the car. We were all surprised to see people with walking sticks coming towards us, apparently they were out enjoying the views while the walked? We couldn’t figure out where they would have come from, where they would start to walk?? We were way out in the middle of nowhere so it would have been quite the trek to reach. *Tip: I wouldn’t suggest planning to walk here unless you are familiar with the area or are prepared for a swift change in weather, have plenty of water and snacks with you and a clear plan for returning to your car/way to escape if needed etc.

From there we drove around 2 hours to reach the coastal town of Dingle and to drive a portion of the Slea Head Loop. We arrived in Dingle around 4pm and made it to our first stop about 15 minutes later. The 2,000 year old Beehive Huts that inspired Star Wars to create a similar looking hut (where Luke had been living on the island) seen in “The Force Awakens & The Last Jedi” films. From the Beehive Huts views of the Blasquet islands & the Island of Skellig Michael can be seen, the location used in Star Wars for scenes with Luke & Rae in “The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi”. The path up to the huts follows a rockwall that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and gently rolling hills covered in green grass and lots of sheep grazing nearby.

A little further up the road are more beehive huts called “The Last Beehive Huts”. I spoke with the owner and he told me that Star Wars came and scanned a few of the huts to use as models for creating several huts they used in the films. These huts are so impressive to see in person. They were all constructed by tightly stacking rocks to form the huts, without mortar or anything else holding them together. Also, at this location it is the perfect opportunity to hold some lamb babies. Growing up my grandparents had lots of sheep and baby lambs, getting to hold these sweet little babies reminded me of my childhood and many memories of bottle feeding the little lambs. It was a fun photo-op moment and they were all so cute, soft and snuggly. We ended our Slea Head tour at Dunmore Head and a walk along the hillside where we admired beautiful scenic views that stretched across the ocean with several islands off in the distance.

We ended our day with a delicious dinner in Dingle at Marina Inn & ice cream from Murphy’s, which we had been told we “had to sample” the renowned creamy ice cream. It didn’t matter that it was cold, windy and misting, because both flavors we tried were yummy and sooo creamy. I recommend sampling both chocolate & raspberry flavors. *Tip: This is the most creamy and delicious ice cream, I highly recommend making a quick pit stop and sampling a few flavors!

After a long day zipping around the Ring of Kerry & Slea Head loops we were wiped. An hour and a half drive back to our airbnb was in order, some much needed downtime, reminiscing about all that we had already seen, recapping the days highlights and scrolling through our shared photo folder of favorite videos/photos and laughing at the funny moments from the day, packing up our things to prepare for an early start the next morning and a new destination for our accomodations. *Tip: I highly recommend creating a shared Google folder or something similar if traveling in a group. One of the best ways I’ve found to share and save your memories as a group and so easy for everyone to upload to throughouth the journey.

Follow along on the adventures of days 3 – 5 where we travel inland towards the Rock of Cashel, Medeival Mile in Kilkenny & our epic castle stay at Kinnitty Castle Hotel, our visit to Drimnagh Castle, Russborough Estate, Glendalough Monastic City, Wicklow Mountains and the incredible ruins at Rock of Dunamase on the next post. See below for photo highlights from days 1 & 2 and let me know in the comments if you have questions about anything from day 1 & 2 or things you hope to see covered in future posts.

Until next time, happy adventuring! ~Krista