A Month in Europe Starts in Dubrovnik– 23 Days, 4 Countries & a Suitcase Full of Stories series-First Day in Dubrovnik, Croatia: Lovrijenac Fortress, Dubrovnik Old Town & the City Walls
There are some mornings when you wake up tired. And then there are mornings when you wake up tired in Dubrovnik.
On September 4, we were still trying to convince our bodies that sleeping at 5-ish in the evening was a reasonable idea. After traveling, changing time zones and finally crashing, I woke early and realized we had accidentally given ourselves a gift:
We were awake in time for sunrise over Dubrovnik.
And honestly? I couldn’t have planned a better beginning.
This was the first full day of our European adventure—a trip that would eventually take us through 4 countries and 25+ locations over 23 days.
We had no idea yet how many steps, borders, ferry rides, questionable roads, incredible meals and “are we really here?” moments were ahead of us.
But Dubrovnik was our beginning. And what a beginning it was.
Starting the Day Above Dubrovnik
We left our apartment around 8:30 a.m. and walked about 20 minutes to the bus stop.
From there, it was roughly another 15 minutes by bus to Dubrovnik’s Old Town.
Our plan wasn’t to wander aimlessly into the crowds. We had been given a very helpful piece of advice:
Start at Lovrijenac Fortress.
The fortress sits outside the western side of Dubrovnik’s Old Town on a steep rocky cliff overlooking the Adriatic. It was built as part of the city’s defensive system and today offers one of those views that makes you stop talking for a minute.
So that’s exactly where we headed. And I’m glad we did.
Lovrijenac Fortress: Start Here
We climbed. And climbed. And climbed some more.
The stone steps were steep and slick, and my knees were already beginning to question some of the decisions that had brought me to Europe.
But then we reached the top. And suddenly none of that mattered.
Below us were the terracotta rooftops of Dubrovnik, the ancient city walls, churches, the deep blue Adriatic and the coastline stretching beyond it.
It looked almost unreal. Like someone had taken a postcard and decided to make it three-dimensional.
Travel Tip: Start Early
Our timing worked in our favor.
We were able to experience Lovrijenac before the larger crowds arrived, and starting here also meant we were already positioned outside the Old Town before making our way through Pile Gate.
Arriving early allowed us to explore the fortress for over an hour without feeling rushed, the freedom to linger in each space without fighting over a crowd for the best views and before the heat set in which made the climb up the stone steps a whole lot easier! 😉
Entering Dubrovnik Through Pile Gate
From the fortress, we made our way toward Pile Gate, one of the main entrances into Dubrovnik’s historic Old Town.
There’s something special about walking toward a fortified medieval city and realizing that you’re about to step through the same gateway that has welcomed people for centuries.
The entrance itself includes a stone bridge and drawbridge before you pass through the gates and emerge onto the Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main historic street.
And then… you’re in.
Suddenly there are stone buildings everywhere. Churches.Tiny side streets. Laundry hanging above narrow passageways. Shops tucked into old stone walls. People wandering in every direction. And those famous red rooftops appearing every time you look up.
A Day of History, Churches & Cobblestones
We used the Dubrovnik Pass during our day, which made it possible for us to visit several of the city’s historic sights.
https://citywallsdubrovnik.hr/ $40 Euros per person, the pass includes: The Historic City Walls, Rector’s Palace, Lovrjenac Fortress, a special Coin exhibit & The Western Outer Wall (all year except December-February).
We visited the Rector’s Palace from the 14th century and learned so much history about the city of Dubrovnik, wandered through several churches and explored more of the Old Town.
One of the things I loved most was that Dubrovnik didn’t feel like a place where history was locked behind glass.
You could feel it under your feet. The walls weren’t simply something to photograph. The churches weren’t simply pretty buildings. The narrow streets weren’t simply charming backdrops. They were all pieces of a city that had been shaped by centuries of trade, defense, faith, earthquakes, conflict and everyday life.
And then, of course, there was lunch.
Because Every Good European Itinerary Needs Pizza
After all that walking, we found a little brick-oven pizza place and sat down for lunch.
We ate at Olivia, tucked into a hidden corner along one of the side streets near the Cathedral -Treasury. I ordered a delicious ham and pineapple personal size wood oven fired pizza for $16 euros.
And this is one of the things I love about travel. Sometimes the meal you remember isn’t the fancy one.
It’s the pizza you eat when your feet hurt, you’re hot, your hair is probably a mess and you realize you’ve already walked approximately 47 miles.
Okay, maybe it wasn’t 47. But it felt like it!😂
Walking the Walls of Dubrovnik
After lunch, we headed back out into the heat and continued exploring.
We walked through the streets, wandered outside the walls and eventually made our way to St. Francis Church and other historic sites.
Then we used the pass to walk the Dubrovnik City Walls.
And yes… It was hot.
The Dubrovnik walls stretch for roughly 1,940 meters and include towers, fortresses and bastions overlooking the city and Adriatic.
The views were incredible. But if you’re visiting in warm weather, don’t underestimate the combination of stone + sun + stairs + walking. Bring water. Wear comfortable shoes. And don’t make your first stop of the day the city walls if you know you’re going to spend the rest of the day melting.
*Save the walls for evening, when the intensity of the sun is gone & you’re able to savor the views of the sun sinking on the horizon is the best time to plan to walk the walls. Also plan a pit stop at Buza Bar for a drink or for those wanting a little more adventure- this is the spot for cliff jumping!
The Bus Ride We Didn’t Exactly Plan
Eventually, our feet had officially had enough. We walked back toward the bus stop and climbed aboard.
Except… we missed our stop.
So instead of getting off where we intended, we ended up riding the bus for the entire route. And you know what? Sometimes travel doesn’t go according to plan.
We eventually got ourselves headed back in the right direction, but by then my knees were reminding me that climbing up and down fortresses and city walls was, perhaps, not the relaxing first day they had envisioned.
We grabbed a few things from the grocery store, made our way back to the apartment and finally called it a night.
What I Loved Most About Our First Day in Dubrovnik
It wasn’t just one attraction. It was the combination: Sunrise, stone walls, Adriatic views, tiny streets, church bells, pizza.
A city that looks almost impossibly beautiful from above, and the feeling that we had finally arrived.
Europe wasn’t a plan on a screen anymore. We were standing in it, and this was only Day One.
If You’re Planning Dubrovnik
Here are a few things I’d keep in mind:
- Start early, especially if you want better views and fewer people.
- Consider beginning at Lovrijenac Fortress before entering the Old Town.
- Wear comfortable shoes with good grip—the stone steps can be steep and slick.
- Bring water & a reusable water bottle to fill up in one of the many FREE water fountains, especially if you’re walking the walls in warmer weather.
- Give yourself more time than you think you’ll need. Dubrovnik is a place where wandering is part of the experience.
- Consider whether a Dubrovnik Pass makes financial sense based on the sights you want to visit.
- Don’t plan every minute. Leave room for the little streets, unexpected shops and spontaneous gelato stops.
- Make sure you have some euros for toilettes *expect to pay $1.50-2 every time you need a restroom. *Stop into a cafe and order a coffee or water and you might find access to a free restroom
- Bring sunscreen and sunprotection (sun hat & umbrella). The mid-day mediteranean sun is no joke!
Want the itinerary without having to build it yourself?
I’ve taken what we actually did, the routes we researched, the places we visited and the lessons we learned along the way and turned them into practical resources for planning your own European adventure.
FREE: Reproducible/Printable Basic Planning Guide
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Because sometimes you don’t need someone to plan your entire trip for you.
You just need someone who already spent the hours figuring out how all the pieces fit together.
Keep Following the Journey
This is only the beginning. Next up:
Montenegro.
A border crossing, beautiful coastal roads, a boat ride to Our Lady of the Rocks, Kotor, questionable driving and a day that reminded me exactly why I love traveling.
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Happy adventuring,
Krista
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